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Kangre Da Tilla - Memories of a Now Forgotten Invasion

कांगड़े दा टीला ओ माता, गर्वे सिंघे घेरिया। अकबर कांगड़े चढ़ आया ओ मेरी माँ। सुत्ती ऐ की जाग दी तू, जाग अम्बे रानिये। गर्वे ने पाई लिया घेरा ओ मेरी माँ। A very famous bhajan from Kangra of Mata Bajreshwari Devi, remembered often across north-west India today, talks of the Kangre da Tilla or the Mound of Kangra, referring to the place where Bajreswari Devi is present. She is popularly also know as Kangra Mata, and the legend is that the place was set up by burying the kaan or ear of an asura who was killed by the Pandavas on the orders of the Devi. There are such bhajans for other major temples in the region as well, but as a history enthusiast, this one often draws my attention.  The story of Kangra is as much the story of the civilizational wounds that the plains experienced; or perhaps it was worse, given how many times temple desecrations were made a conscious strategy. This song, at some level, seems to pass on the memory of one such gory experience that was witnessed by the peopl...
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The Last Maratha of Delhi

Okay, so long time, and a short diversion from the theme of this blog. Apologies in advance.
Ashokan Pillar at Hindu Rao Hospital (courtesy hindurao.com)

Very few people even in Delhi know the history of Hindu Rao Hospital in Delhi. Scene to one of the worst battles in the 1857 mutiny, this place also houses a baoli and an Ashokan edict, supposedly one of the several that Firoz Shah Tughlaq shifted to Delhi from random places within his empire (a popular one is at Firoz Shah Kotla (behind the cricket stadium) in Old Delhi. The place is located in the remnants of the Aravalli mountains in the northern parts of Delhi, more commonly known as the Ridge, and also houses a baoli. However, the building that houses the hospital was the haveli of a Maratha noble by the name of Raja Hindu Rao.

Raja Hindu Rao was the brother-in-law of Maharaja Daulat Rao Scindia of Gwalior, and the brother of the female regent of the Indian princely state of Gwalior. Following the Revolt of 1857, he shifted to Delhi where he was on friendly terms with the British Resident of Delhi, who came in post 1857. The house is believed to have been built by Edward Colebrooke, the Resident of Delhi between 1827 and 1829. Colebrooke was however sacked for being corrupt, and it went into the hands of William Fraser, another Resident in 1831. However, Fraser was murdered by the Nawab of Ferozepur Jhirka (part of Mewat district in Haryana) and the house was bought by Hindu Rao. The British bought the house after Rao's death in 1855, but it continued to be known as his house.

Raja Hindu Rao from Emily Eden's collection (Courtesy: British Library)

Hindu Rao was known to be quite fond of Delhi, much in line with the Scindias of past. However, he was known to be on excellent terms with the British. As per Emily Eden, sister to then Governor General of India, Lord Auckland,

"On a Revolution at Gwatia he retired to Delhi, where he now principally resides, and where he is well known in European society, with which he is fond of Mixing. Hindoo Rao is a very constant attendant on the person of the Governor-General (her brother, Lord Auckland) wherever he may be in the neighbourhood of Delhi; making a point, generally, of joining his suite and riding with him on his morning marches."

Comments

  1. N GhatgeNovember 18, 2020 at 9:03 AM

    hello it was interesting reading a blog on Raja Hindurao Ghatge..our family are the direct descendants of him...
    do you think the Delhi archives have more information on him.
    Kind Regards
    s. Nandita Ghatge.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Holds A Sharp PenJanuary 13, 2021 at 1:11 AM

      Namaskar,

      You can reach out to the Hindu Rao Hospital staff, who can help on this. There have been some efforts to preserve the remains of the heritage wings.

      Also, there were books on the Scindia history that may help with more information on the same.

      Delete
  2. N GhatgeJune 26, 2021 at 6:46 PM

    Thank you so much

    ReplyDelete

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Kangre Da Tilla - Memories of a Now Forgotten Invasion

कांगड़े दा टीला ओ माता, गर्वे सिंघे घेरिया। अकबर कांगड़े चढ़ आया ओ मेरी माँ। सुत्ती ऐ की जाग दी तू, जाग अम्बे रानिये। गर्वे ने पाई लिया घेरा ओ मेरी माँ। A very famous bhajan from Kangra of Mata Bajreshwari Devi, remembered often across north-west India today, talks of the Kangre da Tilla or the Mound of Kangra, referring to the place where Bajreswari Devi is present. She is popularly also know as Kangra Mata, and the legend is that the place was set up by burying the kaan or ear of an asura who was killed by the Pandavas on the orders of the Devi. There are such bhajans for other major temples in the region as well, but as a history enthusiast, this one often draws my attention.  The story of Kangra is as much the story of the civilizational wounds that the plains experienced; or perhaps it was worse, given how many times temple desecrations were made a conscious strategy. This song, at some level, seems to pass on the memory of one such gory experience that was witnessed by the peopl...
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