कांगड़े दा टीला ओ माता, गर्वे सिंघे घेरिया। अकबर कांगड़े चढ़ आया ओ मेरी माँ। सुत्ती ऐ की जाग दी तू, जाग अम्बे रानिये। गर्वे ने पाई लिया घेरा ओ मेरी माँ। A very famous bhajan from Kangra of Mata Bajreshwari Devi, remembered often across north-west India today, talks of the Kangre da Tilla or the Mound of Kangra, referring to the place where Bajreswari Devi is present. She is popularly also know as Kangra Mata, and the legend is that the place was set up by burying the kaan or ear of an asura who was killed by the Pandavas on the orders of the Devi. There are such bhajans for other major temples in the region as well, but as a history enthusiast, this one often draws my attention. The story of Kangra is as much the story of the civilizational wounds that the plains experienced; or perhaps it was worse, given how many times temple desecrations were made a conscious strategy. This song, at some level, seems to pass on the memory of one such gory experience that was witnessed by the peopl...
Since Kathua is so infamous today, let us talk something about Basohli.
Basohli is part of the Jammu division of Jammu and Kashmir state, and was a principality of its own that could be traced back to at least 930AD, when it was part of a war between Chamba, Durgara (Jammu) and Trigarta (Kangra). Old Chamba copper plates of the time refer to this place, as per Hutchison and Vogel, as Sumarta, with its capital located in Vallapura. Sumarta itself was probably the nucleus of the Balor/Basohli state, and its Rajputs, the Sumarias, were famous for their martial skills. However, in modern times, Basohli is remembered more for its distinct sub-school within the Pahari paintings.
The original capital of this state was a place called Vallapura. This Vallapura, now known as Billawar, lies in Kathua district, and still houses ruins of the early gone eras. One of the interesting places there, which probably has survived the ravages of time and invaders, is the Maha Bilvakeshwar temple. It is a stone temple that is still in use, and is also known by the name of Harihar temple. As Hutchison and Vogel describe it:
"The temple faces west, and consists of a mandapa...the latter containing a stone linga. Of the mandapa, only the north and the west wall are still standing."
Bases for only three of the pillars survived, and it is interesting to note that there is not much knowledge even now on the builder of this temple. Local legends believe that it was built by the Pandavas themselves, which seems to be a recurring theme across several hill states. Interestingly, it is also believed that Babur had inflicted considerable damage on the temple, though this is disputed.
Sharing some wonderful pictures I came across during the research on Mapio shot by Parbodh C Bali.
Basohli is part of the Jammu division of Jammu and Kashmir state, and was a principality of its own that could be traced back to at least 930AD, when it was part of a war between Chamba, Durgara (Jammu) and Trigarta (Kangra). Old Chamba copper plates of the time refer to this place, as per Hutchison and Vogel, as Sumarta, with its capital located in Vallapura. Sumarta itself was probably the nucleus of the Balor/Basohli state, and its Rajputs, the Sumarias, were famous for their martial skills. However, in modern times, Basohli is remembered more for its distinct sub-school within the Pahari paintings.
The original capital of this state was a place called Vallapura. This Vallapura, now known as Billawar, lies in Kathua district, and still houses ruins of the early gone eras. One of the interesting places there, which probably has survived the ravages of time and invaders, is the Maha Bilvakeshwar temple. It is a stone temple that is still in use, and is also known by the name of Harihar temple. As Hutchison and Vogel describe it:
"The temple faces west, and consists of a mandapa...the latter containing a stone linga. Of the mandapa, only the north and the west wall are still standing."
Bases for only three of the pillars survived, and it is interesting to note that there is not much knowledge even now on the builder of this temple. Local legends believe that it was built by the Pandavas themselves, which seems to be a recurring theme across several hill states. Interestingly, it is also believed that Babur had inflicted considerable damage on the temple, though this is disputed.
Sharing some wonderful pictures I came across during the research on Mapio shot by Parbodh C Bali.




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