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Gulab Singh and the Battle of Jammu 1809

The year was 1808. The place, Jammu. Raja Jaid Singh was placed on the throne of Jammu to be its king, supported by the presence of Mian Mota Singh, the all-powerful kingmaker of Jammu. In this period of madness in the province of Jammu, one hoped that Jammu would witness a semblance of balance and stability being created. Jammu had been in a free fall following the death of Raja Brijraj Dev. Sampuran Singh, the successor, succumbed to smallpox, leading to the situation that a new successor had to be found desperately. In the scramble, the name of Jaid Singh came forward, and with Mian Mota Singh’s support, Jaid Singh ascended the throne. Raja Brijraj Dev of Jammu ( painting with San Diego Museum of Art) Contributing to the constant madness in Jammu were the Khalsa forces who would raid Jammu and pillage it constantly, devoiding it of its wealth. The 1783 pillage of Jammu remained afresh in the minds of the people and the aristocrats alike - for two months, one witnessed not a single

Shiva Remains Tall in Vallapura

Since Kathua is so infamous today, let us talk something about Basohli.

Basohli is part of the Jammu division of Jammu and Kashmir state, and was a principality of its own that could be traced back to at least 930AD, when it was part of a war between Chamba, Durgara (Jammu) and Trigarta (Kangra). Old Chamba copper plates of the time refer to this place, as per Hutchison and Vogel, as Sumarta, with its capital located in Vallapura. Sumarta itself was probably the nucleus of the Balor/Basohli state, and its Rajputs, the Sumarias, were famous for their martial skills. However, in modern times, Basohli is remembered more for its distinct sub-school within the Pahari paintings.

The original capital of this state was a place called Vallapura. This Vallapura, now known as Billawar, lies in Kathua district, and still houses ruins of the early gone eras. One of the interesting places there, which probably has survived the ravages of time and invaders, is the Maha Bilvakeshwar temple. It is a stone temple that is still in use, and is also known by the name of Harihar temple. As Hutchison and Vogel describe it:

"The temple faces west, and consists of a mandapa...the latter containing a stone linga. Of the mandapa, only the north and the west wall are still standing."

Bases for only three of the pillars survived, and it is interesting to note that there is not much knowledge even now on the builder of this temple. Local legends believe that it was built by the Pandavas themselves, which seems to be a recurring theme across several hill states. Interestingly, it is also believed that Babur had inflicted considerable damage on the temple, though this is disputed.

Sharing some wonderful pictures I came across during the research on Mapio shot by Parbodh C Bali.




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