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Showing posts from July, 2020

The Ballad of Handur: Honor, Blood, and the Shadow of Bilaspur

Black and White Picture of Raja Ugar Singh of Hindur, 1840-1850 (from Archer's book on Punjab Hills Paintings) Picture the year: 1795. The foothills of the Shivaliks are tense, echoing with the tramp of armed men and the grinding pressure of regional rivalries. Down in the valleys, Raja Ram Saran Singh Handuriya of Handur (modern-day Nalagarh) is caught in a grinding political bind. For years, Handur has ridden the coattails of Kangra’s aggressive campaigns against its bitter historical rival, Bilaspur (then known as Kahlur). But looking out across his contested borders, Ram Saran Singh faces a heavier, more haunting question: Does he continue serving as a satellite to Kangra’s ambitions, or does he break away, side with Maha Chand and Bilaspur, and reclaim a fractured sense of Rajput honor? The friction between Handur and Bilaspur was rooted in continuous struggles over strategic border zones, crucial river-crossing points, and the Satgarha (seven forts) territory. Because Handur...

Tracing the Origins of Bilaspur's Chandela Rulers

Raja Ajmer Chand of Kahlur (Potrait at Brookings Museum) The more one reads about the nature of the ruling dynasties of the Hill states of the Western Himalayas, the more fascinating it gets. The realization that the Hill states indeed became a repository for a culture that literally vanished from the North and Centre of India starts to weigh in on the mind, and makes you wonder whether there can be any recreation as part of a cultural project, though it may be a near impossibility. I have talked about the nature of origins of Kullu, Suket and Mandi, particularly their links to Bengal’s old Gaudiya and Pala dynasties. However, another important state of the region came up from the central Indian heartland, which does not seem to get highlighted enough. The state of Bilaspur (of Himachal, not to be confused with Chhattisgarh), or Kahlur as it was also known, was set up by an offshoot from the ruling family of Chandela Rajputs of Bundelkhand. This has been interestingly captured by Hutc...

Nurpur Painting's Evolution - Remnants in Brij Raj Swami temple

I have written previously about the BrijRaj Swami temple of Nurpur, which has its own tale of protection from iconoclasm. The temple that stands today was actually the palace of Raja Jagat Singh Pathania, after the original temple as destroyed by forces of Shah Jahan in 1641. However, the present temple has unfortunately been coated with a horrendous blue paint, and neither the Himachal Pradesh government nor the Government of India and their archaeological bodies have made any efforts to restore the paintings of this temple. The painting frescoes of this temple are a classic example of the emergent Pahari art style, one sub-branch of which transformed into the Nurpur shaili  . The red backdrop, the perspective laden fine detailing among others are still visible in whatever is left of the temple's frescoes. I can only hope that it is revived soon. That would be true justice to the history of the region. For now, some pictures of frescoes that I had captured a couple of years ago. E...