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Kangre Da Tilla - Memories of a Now Forgotten Invasion

कांगड़े दा टीला ओ माता, गर्वे सिंघे घेरिया। अकबर कांगड़े चढ़ आया ओ मेरी माँ। सुत्ती ऐ की जाग दी तू, जाग अम्बे रानिये। गर्वे ने पाई लिया घेरा ओ मेरी माँ। A very famous bhajan from Kangra of Mata Bajreshwari Devi, remembered often across north-west India today, talks of the Kangre da Tilla or the Mound of Kangra, referring to the place where Bajreswari Devi is present. She is popularly also know as Kangra Mata, and the legend is that the place was set up by burying the kaan or ear of an asura who was killed by the Pandavas on the orders of the Devi. There are such bhajans for other major temples in the region as well, but as a history enthusiast, this one often draws my attention.  The story of Kangra is as much the story of the civilizational wounds that the plains experienced; or perhaps it was worse, given how many times temple desecrations were made a conscious strategy. This song, at some level, seems to pass on the memory of one such gory experience that was witnessed by the peopl...
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Nurpur Painting's Evolution - Remnants in Brij Raj Swami temple

I have written previously about the BrijRaj Swami temple of Nurpur, which has its own tale of protection from iconoclasm. The temple that stands today was actually the palace of Raja Jagat Singh Pathania, after the original temple as destroyed by forces of Shah Jahan in 1641. However, the present temple has unfortunately been coated with a horrendous blue paint, and neither the Himachal Pradesh government nor the Government of India and their archaeological bodies have made any efforts to restore the paintings of this temple.

The painting frescoes of this temple are a classic example of the emergent Pahari art style, one sub-branch of which transformed into the Nurpur shaili . The red backdrop, the perspective laden fine detailing among others are still visible in whatever is left of the temple's frescoes. I can only hope that it is revived soon. That would be true justice to the history of the region. For now, some pictures of frescoes that I had captured a couple of years ago.

Everyday life scenes from Nurpur caption

Sadhu was visible on the top. A donation being given, possibly by the King (?) in the frame below

On the right, the King is praying to Lord Shiva. Seems like he is preparing to go on battle

Battling elephants . One must remember that it was also a favorite game with big betting stakes in the 1640s

Scene of a darbar, with all the feudatories being present. 

For those interested, please use these pictures with due acknowledgment of source. I do put my copyright on them but it is allowed for free use, so long as it is academic, non-commercial in nature.

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Kangre Da Tilla - Memories of a Now Forgotten Invasion

कांगड़े दा टीला ओ माता, गर्वे सिंघे घेरिया। अकबर कांगड़े चढ़ आया ओ मेरी माँ। सुत्ती ऐ की जाग दी तू, जाग अम्बे रानिये। गर्वे ने पाई लिया घेरा ओ मेरी माँ। A very famous bhajan from Kangra of Mata Bajreshwari Devi, remembered often across north-west India today, talks of the Kangre da Tilla or the Mound of Kangra, referring to the place where Bajreswari Devi is present. She is popularly also know as Kangra Mata, and the legend is that the place was set up by burying the kaan or ear of an asura who was killed by the Pandavas on the orders of the Devi. There are such bhajans for other major temples in the region as well, but as a history enthusiast, this one often draws my attention.  The story of Kangra is as much the story of the civilizational wounds that the plains experienced; or perhaps it was worse, given how many times temple desecrations were made a conscious strategy. This song, at some level, seems to pass on the memory of one such gory experience that was witnessed by the peopl...
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